|505, 5o5, International 505, International 5o5, International 505 dinghy, 505 sailing, 5o5 sailing, sail, sailing, skiff, dinghy, one-design,race, racing, International, rebuild, re-build, rerig, rig, rigging re-rig, fleet, class association, 505 class association, 5o5 class association, high, performance, high performance, fast, fun, exciting, skiff, spinnaker, trapeze, spinnaker, trapeze, fast, fun, vacuum bag, Kevlar, fittings, controls, vang, kicker, shrouds, cunningham, outhaul, mast ram|
Updated 18 November, 2002
My thought was to buy a boat that was considered too old to race seriously in the UK, rig it with some sort of simplified US-style layout, grab some used sails and perhaps used foils from within fleet 19, and use it as a fleet loaner boat.
As part of this deal, Paul also found me a rather older and cheaper 505, Rondar 7080. At this point, we were trying to get all the 505s we could to Portugal, as we had Portuguese sailors lined up to charter or borrow them for the 2001 Worlds, so we shipped 7080 to the USA via Portugal. I first saw 7080, aka Cardiac Arrest, next to a shipping container in Cascais, Portugal.
Though a high mileage boat with lots of scratches, there was enough there that someone could have sailed the boat at the worlds. However, the age and condition of the boat scared everyone off, and it was not raced in Portugal.
|7080, as it was rigged on arrival||forward cockpit |
Note aft jib cleat platforms
this boat was probably intended
to have the crew tack facing AFT
|vang/kicker and jib sheeting |
note pink line so jib lead block floats
high enough for North short luff jib
|pole launcher made from a|
|Thwart not part of tank when |
tank was moulded
|aft end of centreboard cap||aft thwart |
the glass tape is no longer
bonded to the aluminium
|Bottom of mast|
|Pivoting rudder||Great name and graphics!||shroud levers||Mast at deck level|
interesting pole launcher line setup
|spinnaker sheet and jib sheet||forward thwart to tank bond looks |
dodgy. I added the pink line to get
the jib lead block high enough for the
North short luff jib. The full luff
length jib would need to have an even
higher jib lead
|Stripped of fittings||Holes everywhere!|
|Quite a pile||No more fittings, what about the |
As most non superboat 505s of this era, 7080 was built of polyester resin and is partly cored, with core in the hull up to the waterline or just above. Parts of the seat tanks may be cored. There are some stiffening rods or tubes between the hull-seat tank join and the rail, as well as some small ribs inside the seat tanks. Much or all the layup schedule appears to be glass matt. 7080 has the flutes at the aft end of the seat tanks that Rondars built in the late seventies and perhaps early eighties had.
Cardiac Arrest had a stainless steel centre mainsheet hoop, a fiberglass forward thwart that had been added after the boat was built over the existing aluminium tube thwart, and an interesting sheet aluminium aft thwart that extended part way inside the seat tanks. Unfortunately the glass tape -- a glass mat tape -- holding this thwart in had not stuck to the aluminium, so this thwart was not well fastened to the boat, except for where it went through the seat tanks. Jib tracks were a variation of the transverse style tracks favoured in the UK, fastened to the forward thwart that had been added.
Some of the fittings were old, some were broken, and they were SailSpeed, Yachtspeed and other second-name fittings. There were a few reasonable servo cleats. Since I intended to use North sails from North Sails Gulf Coast -- as nearly all local 505s do -- I gave away the old and tired sails that came with the boat.
As almost all non-USA 505s, the boat had a jib halyard system rather than a stuff luff on a forestay. The mast was decent, but had a low spreader bracket and the high UK-style shroud hounds. The shrouds had levers, but it was not possible to rake and tighten the shrouds on the water, which is necessary for the US East Coast rig to race in any breeze. The basic control systems did not resemble the way we do control systems in the US, and I believe we need fleet loaner boats that actually work the way the boats we race here do.
Everyone who sees the boat loves the name, the boat has a great Cardiac Arrest graphic on each side of the bow; we decided very early on that had to stay. Since we wanted a US-style layout, virtually all the fittings came off the boat. I left the upper gudgeon on the transom, a through-deck bullseye for the spinnaker pole downhaul through the foredeck underneath the ram tube stayed in, the ram fitting on the foredeck stayed on. I also left the shroud chainplates in, as I planned to use them as they were, but ended up temporarily removing them later to put in the rail nonskid. I quickly installed new Andersen (Elvstrom) bailers.
After removing almost all the fittings and putting the new bailers in, I threw all the loose fittings, fasteners, rudder, tiller, centreboard, spars and other pieces in the boat and weighed it, and was horrified to learn it was close to 40 pounds (18 kg) overweight.
My re-rig project was quickly turning into a rebuild and re-rig project. I hoped that by removing water from the core, minimizing the weight added in my repairs, and rigging the boat light with modern fittings and #8 rather than #10 fasteners in many places, the boat could be lighter than it was, and have an easy to use US-style control systems layout. I started by filling all the old fitting holes with epoxy and fillers.
I ground away all damaged areas of the cockpit floor glass matt going through the matt to the foam in perhaps 10 locations. Where earlier repairs had placed filler on the foam, I ground down a little way into the foam to remove some of the filler. There was a large repair in the floor on the port side of the centreboard case. This was where the repair had been glassed over the earlier nonskid, and more paint and nonskid applied. I ground and chiseled this down, going most of the way through the inner skin material added during the repair, and removing all earlier paint and nonskid.
I then drilled a large number of 3/16" and 1/4" holes through the cockpit floor, into the foam core, being careful to not drill through the outer skin of the hull. This was to expose more of the foam core to the atmosphere, in an effort to dry it out. These holes were drilled primarily into areas of the foam core that were black rather than red.
A number of different ideas were tried out to dry out the core. Unfortunately I did not have frequent access to a scale, so I was not able to to measure the weight loss -- if any -- that each resulted in.
I had been considering how to repair the floor once I was finished drying out the core and had solicited advice from several people. I had worked at Waterat for a few weeks earlier in the year, and had learned a lot -- though I had read a little about it, I had no hands-on experience with vacuum bagging prior to working at Waterat -- on how to do layups and vacuum bags. I could not have successfully done this repair myself without that experience and knowledge. I also spent hours on the web looking for material suppliers and reading various "how to" articles. I needed to bond in cloth to reinforce what was left of the original cockpit floor, making up for the material I had removed, and making the repaired floor strong enough to hold up without cracking or being punctured, unlike the original floor.
Using a vacuum bag to try and dry out the core could both dry out the core, and establish if a decent vacuum could be had at all, so Plan E consisted of a vacuum bag on the cockpit floor. Without a wet layup I had no time constraints in fitting the bag. That was just as well, as it took hours to fit a bag to the cockpit floor, find the leaks and get a vacuum. The boat was now inside a large tent that had been erected in John Hauser's backyard. After leaving the bag sucking for several days, I returned to check on the boat and discovered that during a strong rainfall, water had gotten inside the tent and on top of the vacuum bag film. This should not have been a problem -- the bag was sealed to the boat, right -- but the water collected in the transom area -- the boat was bow up -- and happened to collect over a small leak in the bag... and the vacuum sucked the water into part of the bag.
$&@!! and more was my immediate reaction. I sponged away the puddle of water over the bag in the stern, found the leak and sealed it, and then left the boat with the vacuum running for several more days, hoping to get some of the water back out. After two or three days the foam at the stern was still appearing moist inside the bag, so I stopped the vacuum, removed the bag, and went back to the heater/fan for a couple of days.
Time for Plan F you think?
I decided that a summer of drying attempts was enough, and the boat was going to weigh whatever it weighed. My experience with the vacuum-to-dry-the-core bag told me that it would take a long time to fit the bag, and that many leaks would be present and would have to be sealed to get a decent vacuum, but that I could get a vacuum and could consider vacuum bagging the cockpit floor in.
I built and slid in a full-width centreboard trunk shim to ensure that the trunk sides stayed parallel and straight while I was laying up the cockpit floor and bonding in the new thwart.
I did quite a bit of pre-layup preparation of the materials and the boat. This included cutting the extra patches of Kevlar for local reinforcements.
With the lengthy time fitting and sealing the earlier vacuum bag had taken fresh in my mind, I bought WEST System 209 Extra Slow Hardener, which gives a much slower cure time than either the normal WEST System 205 Fast or 206 Slow hardeners.
Calling in some favours, I recruited Dustin Romey and Kevin Mehaffey to help with the layup, and on a nice Saturday morning, we started. There was not enough room to do this inside the tent, so the boat was moved outside. We also started quite early in the morning, before the real heat of the day.
The layup took a considerable amount of time. Though the 209 high temperature hardener did slow down the epoxy cure considerably, the boat was partly in the sun and it was getting warm, accelerating the cure.
Once all the Kevlar, glass and peel ply was in, we rolled the boat into the tent to get it out of the sun and slow down the cure, and set about fitting the vacuum bag. This took a long time, as I anticipated. Dustin finally found a small cut in the bag near the transom, and when we taped that up, we had a partial vacuum; enough to hear and find the remaining leaks. After what seemed like hours we were able to get a good vacuum. In areas that had been in shade, the resin was still wet enough to soak into the peel ply, while in some of the areas that had been in the sun, it did not soak into the peel ply. However, I believe the cure had not progressed so far that the vacuum could not consolidate the layup in those areas.
Once I removed the bag and peel ply the resulting floor had a distinct peel ply texture in the areas where resin had soaked into the peel ply and less or no peel ply texture elsewhere.
After some detailing (mostly sanding), it was on to the next step. While drying out the core, I had cut bulkheads to fit for the aft thwart. I used 6mm Okume marine plywood, which I obtained out of the scrap bin at Chesapeake Light Craft in Annapolis. Each face was epoxy coated and sanded. I glassed one face on each with 4 oz. cloth, and decided that glassing was an easier way to get a level epoxy coating on plywood.
|Kevlar (and 2 oz. glass) floor |
with thwarts being bonded in
|Aft part of cockpit floor|
|Looking at the bailer, just forward |
of the thwart.
I left a little of the original thwart
tape in temporarily, to help position
the new thwart. It was quite difficult
to properly sand the bailer areas.
I should have left the bailers out
until after the floor was layed up,
but would then have had more trouble
sealing the bag.
|You can see where Kevlar was added for|
full coverage at the stern, and also the
patch to reinforce the area where the boom
The thwart design was an effort to get the cut-away thwart concept that is on 7200, without trying to cold mould two curved thwart tops.
The first layer of paint and the nonskid powder -- shaken on with a pepper shaker -- went on fine. From past experience I removed the masking tape immediately, and then tried to take a shortcut. I painted part of the exposed-by-removing-the-masking-tape no nonskid area at the same time. The next day, I put a second coat over everything, and discovered that I had a discernible line where I had stopped the paint on the no nonskid area. A third thin coat resolved that problem. I also noticed that when rolling on my second coat over the nonskid powder, the roller had picked up a little bit of the powder that was not quite glued down in the paint (despite my having carefully vacuumed up any powder that was not glued down), and rolled it onto the no nonskid areas. Oh, well... maybe a little nonskid on the side of the CB trunk is OK.
I then sanded the bonded in thwarts a little to prepare for painting (they had already been sanded prior to being bonded in), and put a couple of thin coats of clear Awlgrip on them.
John Hauser and I wet sanded the seat tanks and deck to 600 grit, and I buffed them to get a little shine back. The areas where the old forward thwart had been bonded in required quite a bit of sanding. Though rather far off the shine of a new boat, they do look quite a bit better.
|After painting floor and thwarts. |
The thwart tops are epoxied,
but not yet painted with
|Thwart closeup |
The boat is wet from being washed
after tanks were wetsanded and buffed
The boat is wet from being washed
I bonded the three-layers -- mahogany, cedar, mahogany -- together, detailed them when the epoxy had cured, and then cut a slot in one face for the thwarts and cut the angles to fit them to the thwarts in the boat. I then put masking tape on the corners of the thwarts in the boat so I would not inadvertently bond the thwart tops to the thwarts early, and bonded the three pieces that made up each thwart top together, while they were sitting on the thwarts. I was able to remove them after curing without too much difficulty. One bond had slipped before the epoxy cured and had to be redone. Once this last bond was cured, I had two fitted thwart tops, but with rectangular cross sections; I wanted nice rounded edges. I bought an inexpensive 3/8" round-off router bit, and was able to round the edges of the thwart tops without too much trouble. However the inexpensive router bit did not have a separate part -- with a bearing -- to run against the side, and I did not get the perfect shape I was hoping for. A little bit of sanding straightened out most of what the router had left; next time buy the better router bit! I epoxy coated, sanded, coated, sanded, coated and sanded the thwart tops. I then sanded the thwarts in the boat where I was bonding to them, masked the thwarts and thwart tops, and bonded the thwart tops in.
Once cured and detailed, I sanded for painting, and went over thwarts and thwart tops with two coats of clear Awlgrip. I intend to put on a third coat when I have a little time.
|Ready to race?||Port thwart from astern. |
That is dust and shavings on the
thwart and floor
|Existing jib cleat platforms moved |
Shroud tensioning system as on
a current Rondar.
|Ram up, ram down, outhaul |
and main cunningham are on
|Existing ram, but with |
Waterat-style ram up and
ram down tackle
|Wow, a Spiro pole launcher!|
|Pole launcher cleat on |
deck. A pad to raise
the cleat higher was
added after this
picture was taken.
The original jib halyard
system was modified
|The jib lead and the spinnaker |
lead use the same track.
This allows the spinnaker
to be moved fore-and-aft
so as to ensure that the
spinnaker pole is kept just
off the forestay by the knot
in the sheet, in varying
Vang/kicker is in front of the
thwart, jib halyard (upper) and
shroud (lower) are just behind
|On this era of Rondar, the launcher|
is centred under the foredeck
rather than angled so as to lead
the spinnaker to port
|The tube across the launcher mouth |
is stainless steel not aluminium!
I used the same type of foam non-skid on the rail that Rondar and Pinnell & Bax use. It is thinner and less textured than what Waterat uses, and is not bevelled at the edge, but it comes in a choice of colours :-)
I had my Waterat and my Rondar next to this boat so I could take measurements and figure out a way to do something on this Rondar. For example, the mast ram up and down tackles are as on my Waterat. The jib track position is as per my Rondar (which is a launcher boat like this old Rondar). The jib halyard and shrouds are led to each seat tank along the hull-seat tank join rather than the floor-CB trunk join. This is an idea I believe Witchcraft used on one or more boats they rigged and both Dustin Romey and John Hauser recently rigged their boats this way. It does increase the friction somewhat as the tackle turns at more blocks, but allows one to put the jib halyard and shroud tail cleats anywhere on the seat tanks one wants. I have not noticed any additional friction. I mounted them just aft of the aft thwart, with the vang/kicker just forward of the thwart. Ram down, ram up, outhaul and cunningham are all on the CB cap, in front of the mainsheet swivel jammer. The spinnaker sheets are not led from the rail to the transom, as is normal on 505s. As on 8263 and 7200, they turn at the rail and go forward to the ratchet block. I like how this cleans up the back of the boat. Centreboard up and down are as on my Waterat, but the centreboard down line is led a little further aft so it can be more easily reached when sitting far aft on the rail in big breeze. The centreboard up line is not shockcorded on the Waterat system so you can grab the tail and pull from anywhere.
Cardiac Arrest now has a split tail mainsheet (transom bridle). The jib sheet cleat platforms are in the same location as the forward thwart on my Waterat or my Rondar, so the crew can easily tack facing forward.
Most of the fittings on the boat and nearly all the fasteners are new, either bought at APS or new fittings out of my spares collection. All bolts have lock nuts rather than standard nuts or standard nuts with lock washers. Much of the line is new, too. I was able to reuse some small servo cleats, a small number of blocks, and a few screws. I should have reused more of the original fittings, but having spent so much time -- and money -- on the floor and the thwart, I was reluctant to use less-than-optimum fittings when re-rigging the boat.
The existing mast was modified for the Long Luff Spinnaker by moving the spinnaker halyard very close to the new maximum height. UK-spec masts already have the spinnaker pole topping lift led to just underneath the jib halyard, so I did not have to change the topping lift. I lowered the shroud hounds to the typical US height. I kept the jib halyard system, as I do not believe the stuff luff system is a significant advantage; my new Rondar goes very well with a jib halyard system. Besides, it is easier to rig and de-rig. The boat came with a home-made pole launcher fitting on the mast; I took it off and mounted an old Spiro fitting I had. I had intended to rig the simpler spinnaker pole trolley system, but then decided that since most of the boats 7080 will race against have spinnaker pole launchers, it should as well. I reused the spinnaker pole, and loaned the boat a spare boom I had until I get around to re-rigging the boom that came with 7080. I was able to make an older rudder from my Waterat fit the boat, along with a spare Waterat tiller and a tiller extension. The boat came with a Milanes and White jibing centreboard. Rondar centreboard trunks are narrower than Waterats (which are maximum width). I was able to fit either of the Waterat HA blades that were made to fit my new Rondar.
I sailed the boat on the evening of October 14th. To my delight, most of the rigging worked properly and well. This was verified when John Hauser and I sailed the boat in a little more breeze a few days later. The boat felt good in the water, got up on a plane and was reasonably stiff, and appeared able to carry rig tension.
After the boat had been sailing and racing, I was finally able to weight it. In not-quite-dry condition, without a CB in it, it weighed approximately 298 pounds.
|Top of vang/kicker. |
Old Schaffer block with becket
added as Waterat used to do,
with a Ronstan Series 20 triple.
A bullet-sized triple would have
less friction, but would be heavier
and cost more.
|Bottom of vang/kicker. |
A Harken bullet double and two
smaller single swivels. I used
Ronstan Series 20 swivels, but
Harken Micro swivels works very
|Another view of vang/kicker|
bottom. The swivels need to be
close enough to the mast, that the
vang/kicker line does not rub on
the edge of the bulkhead opening
(or at least does not rub much).
|You can see the vang/kicker |
bottom. Note the Harken wire
block attached to a high load
vang/kicker fitting at the base
of the mast. I used a Harken 300,
a Schaffer matching the upper
block or a Harken 304 would be
better, but the 300 is lighter
|Vang/kicker bottom||Vang/kicker control line (yellow) |
emerges (starboard side) from diagonal
bulkhead above the jib halyard and
This Rondar had tank drain bungs
in the FRONT of the tank. You can
see the drain bung behind the control
|Vang/kicker control line (yellow) |
emerges (port side) from diagonal
bulkhead above the jib halyard
and the shroud tails.
The tank drain plugs are at the
front of the tank. That is the
drain plug behind the control
|(starboard) The vang/kicker line |
goes aft to a Ronstan Series 20
cheek block, which turns it up to
a Servo cleat
|The jib halyard emerges from the |
mast just below the gooseneck.
A hook with a block on it, is
hooked to the halyard. This
hook is on a cascade system
that results in a 4:1 mechanical
advantage line being lead aft
along the CB trunk bottom
|Detail showing how the blue |
vectran lines on the cascade
are attached to the mast step
|The blue vectran 4:1 line runs aft|
along the CB trunk side. It is the
blue vectran line WITHOUT the
floating Ronstan block with the
red control line
|The 4:1 line is turned forward |
by a cheek block mounted on a
block just behind the back of
the centreboard trunk. It runs
back forward to a floating
Ronstan Series 20 block, which
has the 8:1 tail(red) running
forward from it.
When this picture was taken
the block had not yet been
painted to match the rest of
|The red tails goes forward and |
through the diagonal bulkheads
on the starboard side.
|The red tails are turned by Harken|
092 standup blocks which lead one
tail down to a double standup block
which turns it aft, and leads the
other through the mast step to a
Micro cheek which turns it down to
the double standup block.
The block of wood and cleat wedge
are temporary spacers to align the
Harken micro cheek block.
|The red tail emerges from the |
diagonal bulkhead on the
starboard side, turned aft by
the double standup block. It
is led aft.
|The red tail emerges from the |
diagonal bulkhead on the
port side, turned aft by
the double standup block. It
is led aft.
|Red jib halyard tail is turned|
up by a cheek block just aft of
the thwart (line runs through
limber hole) up to a Servo cleat
|The shroud ends in a Harken wire |
block. A shroud tail starts
at the chainplate, runs up to
this Harken block, down to a
second Harken block on a shackle
and diagonally forward along the
|The shroud tail is turned down |
and aft by a Harken wire bullet
on an eye strap bolted to the
It ends at a Ronstan Series 20
triple block with becket.
|Line is reeved from the triple,|
to a double fastened to the front
of the centreboard trunk.
A floating Ronstan Series 20 turns
the line aft.
The line from the other side crosses
through centreline -- an angled hole
was drilled through the structure
forward of the centreboard trunk --
and is turned aft by another floating
Ronstan Series 20
The shroud attachment on the CB case
|Another view of the shrould tackle |
|The two lines are joined into one, |
and led aft and turned around a cheek
block opposite the cheek block for the
jib halyard tackle.
|As with the jib halyard, the line ends|
at a floating Ronstan Series 20 block.
Black (or maybe it is dark blue) control
lines run forward from the floating
Series 20 block, through the diagonal
bulkhead, just to port of centreline.
As with the jib halyard, they are turned
down to the double stand up on the port
side, and through the mast step, around
the Micro cheek block, and down to the
double standup on the starboard side.
The jib halyard tail uses the upper
sheave on each double standup, while
the shroud tail uses the lower sheave.
|The shroud tail is led aft along |
the tank-hull join, through the
limber hole in the aft thwart
to a Ronstan Series 20 cheek
block, which turns it up to a
Holt-Allen cleat on the
This bracket was moved forward after the pictures were taken. There is empty space inboard of the grey-gelcoated fiberglass sides of the CB trunk going forward to the diagonal bulkheads and mast step. I cut away a piece on each side and filled the empty space with epoxy coated wood. The brackets are bolted to each other through this wood.
A line is reeved between the triple with becket and the triple and is turned aft by a floating Ronstan Series 20 single. This line is joined to the line that is led from the other side, through a hole in the front of the CB trunk (forward of the centreboard well itself), turned aft by another floating Ronstan Series 20. The two lines are joined and tensioned together. The single line is lead aft along the centreboard trunk and floor join on the port side, through the limber hole in the aft thwart, to a cheek block on a block of wood at the back of the CB trunk. It wraps around the sheave and ends on a floating Ronstan Series 20. Two lines are led forward from this floating block in a manner that mirrors that used for the jib halyard. The shroud control lines are reeved through the lower sheave in the Harken 220 standup doubles and led to cheek blocks and cleats just aft of the corresponding jib halyard cheek blocks and cleats. The shroud tail is led along the hull tank join, below the jib halyard tail, which is below the vang/kicker. I used Ronstan Series 20 cheek blocks as for the jib halyard tail, but used a spare set of Holt-Allen cleats. The shroud cleats are low enough on the tank I felt cleat height was no longer an issue, and I did not need to buy the lower profile Servo cleats for the shrouds.
|Ram down starts with a Harken |
wire block with becket, hanging
on a vectran line from the car.
|You can see the Harken wire block |
used for the ram down control
attached to the mast step. The
blue line with the pink fleck
is the ram down control line.
It is deadended on the mast step.
|The blue line with pink fleck is|
reeved between the floating double
and the single on the mast step
and is then led to a cheek block
on the starboard side of the mast
step that turns it aft, through
the slot in the bulkhead
|Ram down tail is cleated on the |
port side in the cleat further
The reason the line starts at the mast step, rather than on a becket on the lower single, is that the becket would reduce the travel in the system, and there is already not much travel between the deck and the mast step.
|Ram up starts with a Harken air |
double block shackled to the ram
up wire emerging from the bottom
of the ram track.
|Ram up is cleated on the port |
side of the cap, opposite the
ram down, and in front of
cunninhgam and outhaul
|Cunningham is on the starboard |
side of the centreboard cap, aft
of the ram up, and in front of
the mainsheet swivel jammer
|Outhaul is on the port |
side of the centreboard cap, aft
of the ram down, and in front of
the mainsheet swivel jammer
|Spiro fitting on mast||The pole launcher line comes down|
from the Spiro, to a bullet block
on the deck just to starboard of
the mast gate, and then to a Ronstan
cleat on a Harken raised angled pad.
The grapevine says that Marlow Excel
Racing (polyester/polyester) is the
best line for this application. Use
the 5mm size I think.
There are two separate shockcord retracts in the boom. The primary shockcord is the one that has one end attached to the spinnaker pole end fitting. The shockcord runs aft to a through-deck block in the boom, forward to a Harken micro double with becket, aft to a Harken micro double, back forward to the micro double with becket, aft to the double, forward to the becket on the double. I attach the double blocks to each end of the boom either by bolting eyestraps to the inside of the boom, or tying the blocks to the end fittings with long-lasting Marlow prestretch line. Building this system can be fun. I buy a little more shockcord than I will ultimately need, so I can pull the blocks apart to the correct distance without straining against the shockcord. I reeve the shockcord through the blocks (except for the through-deck block in the boom) outside the boom. I use a stiff wire to lead a line through the boom, and pull the forward block through the boom to the front and fasten it there. I then tie the aft block to the aft end of the boom, and run a feeder line from the through-deck block to the back of the boom, tie on the end of the shockcord and pull it out of the boom through the through deck block. I then slip that through the pole end fitting and tie a stopper knot. The shockcord typically needs to be shortened at this point, in order to have enough force pulling the pole aft.
The second shockcord is the one that has a loop sliding on the pole. The purpose of this shockcord is two-fole. The first reason is to keep the forward end of the pole in against the boom when the pole is stowed. This helps keep the pole aligned with the boom when the launch sequence is started. The second reason is that this shockcord helps pull the inboard end of the pole off the Spiro/Proctor fitting on the mast. This shockcord starts with a loop large enough to slide on the pole. I McLube pole and shockcord from time to time. It is led through a small block close to the front of the boom, either a single on an eyestrap or a cheek block, which turns the shockcord aft. It runs into the boom through a slot, and goes the length of the boom to the back, where it is deadended.
|Two bullet blocks are hung on |
short loops behind the mast step
|Ronstan bullet on medium length |
blue loop is the centreboard up
|The longer loop allows the line to|
lift away from the centreboard cap
controls when it is pulled
|The CB down line starts at the |
block on loop on the port cap
(right side of photo near top)
|It runs through the cheek block |
on the port side of the CB head
|Through the block on the loop and |
aft to a cheek block near the back
of the CB cap. Then down to a cheek
block on the side of the CB trunk,
at the floor. The line is tied to
a shockcord which is led to a block
on the transom and then forward.
|The black CB down shockcord runs|
forward along the starboard side
of the CB trunk, and deadends at
the diagonal bulkhead.
|The jib cunnigham cleat is just|
to port of the mast gate
|The trapeze shockcord|
runs forward through
the diagonal bulkhead
|The twing cleat and twing handle |
on the port side
|The twing line continues inboard|
from the handle through a bullseye,
across the boat to a second bullseye,
through the second handle, etc.
The fairleads just outboard of the cleats is something Rondar installed on my new Rondar. It ensures the twing line cleats properly, even if the line is not led straight out of the cleat. This allows some flexibility in where the bullseye on the rail goes.
The spinnaker halyard cleat was a quick accommodation and is not ideal. I need to build a bracket to support the cleat in the more normal horizontal orientation, rather than on the side of the CB cap. The shroud tackles should be vectran. I need to scrape and sand the paint off the floor forward of the diagonal bulkheads and see what state the floor is in. I found and fixed most of the small leaks in the side tanks, but have a couple more small repairs to complete. The mast gate was repaired at some point and is no longer on centreline, or parallel to it, so that needs to be fixed. It may be necessary to extend the mast gate opening further aft so the mast can be rammed straight when stepped at 10' 0" from the transom (or sailed with little bend when raked). A short term accomodation will be to step the mast slightly further forward. I need to weigh the boat dry (it weighed 298 without a CB and not quite dry).
|Paul Young||finding, acquiring and shipping the boat|
|Allan Freedman||Initial trial sail, making sure I enjoyed sailing 7080|
|John Hauser||paint removing, counseling, suggestions|
|Larry Tuttle/Waterat Sailing Equipment||LOTS of great advice, and several weeks of great learning while working there earlier in the year|
|Hauser's boat yard||a great FREE Annapolis do-it-yourself boat yard, conveniently located in John Hauser's back yard|
|Mike Goldstein and Jen Shwade||loan of a dehumidifier|
|David Stetson||Layup table suggestions|
|Dustin Romey and Kevin Mehaffey||cockpit floor layup|
|Tom Price||advice on how to do nonskid floors|
|The US Navy||loan of a vacuum pump|
The following are a few of the many web sites I reviewed (I forgot to bookmark many that I checked):
Composite Fabricators Association Glossary -- http://www.cfa-hq.org/glossary.htm
eComposites: Vacuum Bagging Basics -- http://www.ecomposites.net/html/how_to_vacuum.htm
Make Your Own Vacuum Bagging Equipment -- http://members.ozemail.com.au/~flyingwing/vacbag/
Marine Composites -- http://marinecomposites.com/
Surf Board Lamination -- http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~decay/number1/lamination.htm
Turner Racing Shells -- http://www.turnershells.com/
An Inexpensive Vacuum System Setup -- http://www.scrollsander.com/Soaring-Vac.htm
AM&D Basic Vacuum Bagging Kit -- http://www.vacuumbagging.com/page9.html
How to Construct a Fiberglass Panel -- http://www.sungroper.asn.au/project/fibreglasspanels.html
DLG Wing Repair Using a Local Vacuum Bag -- http://www.monkeytumble.com/hlg/wing_repair.htm
Vacuum Bagging (Model Rocket Parts) -- http://www.info-central.org/construction_vacuumbagging.shtml
Try a Google or AltaVista search on keywords like "vacuum bag" and "glass", "cloth", "resin" or similar and see what you find.