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Rebuilding and Re-Rigging Rondar 7080

by Alexander Meller

Updated 18 November, 2002

Why Rebuild an Old 505?

I have thought for several years that my local fleet -- the part of USA 505 fleet 19 in Annapolis/Baltimore/Washington that sails out of Severn Sailing Association -- needed a "fleet loaner boat", much as Canadian 505 fleet 4 in Ottawa, Canada has done for many years. I have occasionally loaned prospects one of my current 505s, but it is hard to take when a boat I race regularly comes back from a sail damaged, which has happened. I thought an older, cheaper boat would be better as a fleet loaner boat, particularly if it was fixed up so it worked properly. The boat could be loaned to interested prospects for some period of time, rather than just for a regatta. It could eventually be sold to prospects who wanted a boat in that price range. I couldn't find an appropriate used 505 on the East Coast, as US used 505 prices are too high -- higher than in the UK -- and there are not a lot of inexpensive used 505s with sail numbers over 6500 in the USA.

My thought was to buy a boat that was considered too old to race seriously in the UK, rig it with some sort of simplified US-style layout, grab some used sails and perhaps used foils from within fleet 19, and use it as a fleet loaner boat.

Finding an Appropriate Boat

Over the years several used UK 505s have been shipped to the USA from the UK, normally with Paul Young assisting in finding a suitable boat, and shipping it. I actually bought two used 505s through Paul, one was a Parker 25 that went to Bermuda. I bought the Parker 25 primarily so there would be five used 505s in Bermuda rather than three or four, and to help the Bermudians have enough boats in the container to make shipping cost effective. I raced the Parker 25 at Bermuda Race Week 2001 with Angela Stenger, and was able to sell it sometime afterwards to a Bermudian. By the way, there are now seven 505s in Bermuda, five Parker 25s, a great Lindsay, and a late model Rondar (see you at Bermuda International Race Week 2003?).

As part of this deal, Paul also found me a rather older and cheaper 505, Rondar 7080. At this point, we were trying to get all the 505s we could to Portugal, as we had Portuguese sailors lined up to charter or borrow them for the 2001 Worlds, so we shipped 7080 to the USA via Portugal. I first saw 7080, aka Cardiac Arrest, next to a shipping container in Cascais, Portugal.

Though a high mileage boat with lots of scratches, there was enough there that someone could have sailed the boat at the worlds. However, the age and condition of the boat scared everyone off, and it was not raced in Portugal.

Starting Point

7080, as it was rigged on arrival forward cockpit
Note aft jib cleat platforms
this boat was probably intended
to have the crew tack facing AFT
vang/kicker and jib sheeting
note pink line so jib lead block floats
high enough for North short luff jib
pole launcher made from a
spreader bracket
Thwart not part of tank when
tank was moulded
aft end of centreboard cap aft thwart
the glass tape is no longer
bonded to the aluminium
Bottom of mast
Pivoting rudder Great name and graphics! shroud levers Mast at deck level
interesting pole launcher line setup
spinnaker sheet and jib sheet forward thwart to tank bond looks
dodgy. I added the pink line to get
the jib lead block high enough for the
North short luff jib. The full luff
length jib would need to have an even
higher jib lead
Stripped of fittings Holes everywhere!
Quite a pile No more fittings, what about the
Once the boat arrived in Annapolis from Portugal, Allan Freedman and I sailed it once before I began the project. The boat felt heavy in the water, a couple of the fittings were pulling out of the tanks, the pole topping lift eye strap pulled out of the outboard end of the spinnaker pole, and a cotter pin fell out so one of the mainsheet blocks came off the centre hoop. One of the two spinnakers that came with the boat was so badly torn after our sail that I put it in the club dumpster when we returned to shore. The two Andersen/Elvstrom bailers leaked. Despite these problems, 7080 is a 505, and we had a great sail!

As most non superboat 505s of this era, 7080 was built of polyester resin and is partly cored, with core in the hull up to the waterline or just above. Parts of the seat tanks may be cored. There are some stiffening rods or tubes between the hull-seat tank join and the rail, as well as some small ribs inside the seat tanks. Much or all the layup schedule appears to be glass matt. 7080 has the flutes at the aft end of the seat tanks that Rondars built in the late seventies and perhaps early eighties had.

Cardiac Arrest had a stainless steel centre mainsheet hoop, a fiberglass forward thwart that had been added after the boat was built over the existing aluminium tube thwart, and an interesting sheet aluminium aft thwart that extended part way inside the seat tanks. Unfortunately the glass tape -- a glass mat tape -- holding this thwart in had not stuck to the aluminium, so this thwart was not well fastened to the boat, except for where it went through the seat tanks. Jib tracks were a variation of the transverse style tracks favoured in the UK, fastened to the forward thwart that had been added.

Some of the fittings were old, some were broken, and they were SailSpeed, Yachtspeed and other second-name fittings. There were a few reasonable servo cleats. Since I intended to use North sails from North Sails Gulf Coast -- as nearly all local 505s do -- I gave away the old and tired sails that came with the boat.

As almost all non-USA 505s, the boat had a jib halyard system rather than a stuff luff on a forestay. The mast was decent, but had a low spreader bracket and the high UK-style shroud hounds. The shrouds had levers, but it was not possible to rake and tighten the shrouds on the water, which is necessary for the US East Coast rig to race in any breeze. The basic control systems did not resemble the way we do control systems in the US, and I believe we need fleet loaner boats that actually work the way the boats we race here do.

Everyone who sees the boat loves the name, the boat has a great Cardiac Arrest graphic on each side of the bow; we decided very early on that had to stay. Since we wanted a US-style layout, virtually all the fittings came off the boat. I left the upper gudgeon on the transom, a through-deck bullseye for the spinnaker pole downhaul through the foredeck underneath the ram tube stayed in, the ram fitting on the foredeck stayed on. I also left the shroud chainplates in, as I planned to use them as they were, but ended up temporarily removing them later to put in the rail nonskid. I quickly installed new Andersen (Elvstrom) bailers.

After removing almost all the fittings and putting the new bailers in, I threw all the loose fittings, fasteners, rudder, tiller, centreboard, spars and other pieces in the boat and weighed it, and was horrified to learn it was close to 40 pounds (18 kg) overweight.

Why Was It Heavy?

I was able to check 505 class records for the boat's original weight, which was very close to minimum. I suspected water was in the core, and drilled some exploratory holes through the cockpit floor. Sure enough the pieces of core brought up by the drill bit were damp. Careful examination of the cockpit floor revealed several cracks or punctures that could have allowed water into the core and some dodgy-looking repairs. The repairs themselves, and the thwarts, which were probably added after the boat was built, could have added some weight, too.

My re-rig project was quickly turning into a rebuild and re-rig project. I hoped that by removing water from the core, minimizing the weight added in my repairs, and rigging the boat light with modern fittings and #8 rather than #10 fasteners in many places, the boat could be lighter than it was, and have an easy to use US-style control systems layout. I started by filling all the old fitting holes with epoxy and fillers.

Removing Thwarts

The forward thwarts were apparently built in-place of fiberglass, and were not built in a mould. Without a proper mould, the surface was not fair, and they were moving relative to the seat tanks, as they were not well bonded to them. They were also in the way of where I wanted to mount the jib cleat-and-turning-block platforms. After days considering whether to take them out or leave them in. I finally grabbed the thwart on one side and and pulled on it to see how firmly it was attached to the boat. My hard tug ripped most of it out. I then decided the forward thwart was coming out and removed the rest of it by hand, without any tools. The aluminium-sheet aft thwart had been badly bent, and the glass tape holding it to the floor and centreboard trunk sides was no longer bonded to it. I decided it would be hard to bond anything to it to reinforce it. It would also be very hard to completely remove as it pierced the seat tank sides and went into the tanks. After considering some sort of encapsulation approach for the aft thwart, I broke it out and ground the remaining sheet aluminium flush with the seat tanks, leaving small portions of the thwart inside the seat tanks. I glass taped over the tank to seal that area. I temporarily left a little bit of the original glass tape that held the thwart against the CB trunk, so I could position the new thwart against it.

Trying to Dry Out the Core

In order to dry out the core, I needed access to it. I also wanted to know what the condition of the cockpit floor was.
Removing Paint, Nonskid and Part of Cockpit Floor
The first step was to remove the existing paint -- multiple layers -- and nonskid. One major repair had glass and resin over the nonskid at the sides of repair and the repair was cracking off the floor in those areas. We first tried some ecologically-correct paint remover without much success, and then tried some serious paint remover that John Hauser had left over from removing the clear finish on his wood-look Waterat's woodwork. When trowelled on and covered with plastic sheets and left for a couple of days, this was able to soften one or two layers of paint enough that some of it could be scraped off. After days of applying paint remover, scraping and then grinding and sanding, I was able to remove the vast majority of the paint and all the nonskid, revealing the actual cockpit floor. The cockpit floor layup appeared to be glass matt over a red or pink foam core. The core consisted of squares, probably held together with some sort of scrim. Many of the slight gaps between the foam squares had turned black, as had many areas within the foam itself. I confirmed with Larry Tuttle of Waterat -- who provided key advice at several points in this project -- that the black areas were most probably those that had been wet. Indeed several of these coincided with cracks or damaged areas in the floor. There were a number of damaged areas, some of which had been repaired earlier by grinding away some of the glass matt and putting in filler and paint.

I ground away all damaged areas of the cockpit floor glass matt going through the matt to the foam in perhaps 10 locations. Where earlier repairs had placed filler on the foam, I ground down a little way into the foam to remove some of the filler. There was a large repair in the floor on the port side of the centreboard case. This was where the repair had been glassed over the earlier nonskid, and more paint and nonskid applied. I ground and chiseled this down, going most of the way through the inner skin material added during the repair, and removing all earlier paint and nonskid.

I then drilled a large number of 3/16" and 1/4" holes through the cockpit floor, into the foam core, being careful to not drill through the outer skin of the hull. This was to expose more of the foam core to the atmosphere, in an effort to dry it out. These holes were drilled primarily into areas of the foam core that were black rather than red.

A number of different ideas were tried out to dry out the core. Unfortunately I did not have frequent access to a scale, so I was not able to to measure the weight loss -- if any -- that each resulted in.

Sitting in the Sun
Since it was now late spring, the boat was left uncovered, in the sun, in John Hauser's back yard. I frequently ran a heater with a fan over the cockpit floor, hoping to evaporate more moisture. After a long stretch of hot sunny days, I was hoping I was making progress, when the boat was caught in the rain uncovered. It became apparent over time that I was never going to get two weeks or more of sunshine without any rain, so we went to plan B.
Sitting in the Sun Covered, With a Heater
With the top cover on, and the heater inside, the combination of sun and heater should heat up the floor, encouraging evaporation. I left the boat for about two weeks this way, and was about to declare it as dry as it was going to get, when it rained again, and some water leaked through the cover. On to Plan C.
Upside down with a Heater
Plan C consisted of placing the boat upside down on the trolley. The dark grey hull would get quite warm in the sunshine. After about two weeks of steady sunshine I thought I was making progress, when another day or rain arrived. Though the boat was upside down, the cockpit floor became damp, I do not know if this was due to the 100% humidity or if water was leaking through the hull from the outside. Plan C1 was instituted. The boat was covered with plastic sheeting and the heater/fan was propped up inside the upturned hull and left on for days. However the cockpit floor would still feel damp to the touch on days it rained. On to Plan D.
Inside a Sealed Bag with a Dehumidifier
I sealed the boat and a borrowed dehumidifier in a large plastic bag. The dehumidifier had a plastic tray to catch water and a hose attachment in the tray. I connected a hose to this drain and led it out of the bag, carefully sealing the exit with bag tape. I intended to leave the boat for several weeks with the dehumidifier running. Unfortunately the vacuum bag tape I used to seal the bag is apparently not intended to hold for extended periods of time, and the weight of the plastic would sometimes open a gap in the bag on very hot days. Also the drain on the collection tray was halfway up the side of the tray, not at the lowest point, and I feared that the dehumidifier would be evaporating the water out of the tray, rather than taking remaining moisture out of the foam core. Whenever I checked the boat and found the bag open I would pull the tray out and pour the water out. I drained considerable amounts of water out of the tray over a period of weeks, but I suspected that each time the bag seal was broken I was dehumidifying John Hauser's backyard, not the foam core. Since I did not wish to break the seal unnecessarily, I did not check the tray on the occasions when I found the bag still sealed. So who knows how much water the dehumidifier actually pulled out of the core. On to Plan E.
Using a Vacuum Bag
Peter Alarie had suggested using a vacuum bag to dry the core. As I understand it, at near vacuum -- very low pressure -- water in the core should turn to vapour and then be drawn off by the pump sucking air out of the bag. Peter used this approach to remove water from portions of the core in the famous Lindsay 505, Dumptruck. This rebuild was the basis of an article in Sailing World Magazine.

I had been considering how to repair the floor once I was finished drying out the core and had solicited advice from several people. I had worked at Waterat for a few weeks earlier in the year, and had learned a lot -- though I had read a little about it, I had no hands-on experience with vacuum bagging prior to working at Waterat -- on how to do layups and vacuum bags. I could not have successfully done this repair myself without that experience and knowledge. I also spent hours on the web looking for material suppliers and reading various "how to" articles. I needed to bond in cloth to reinforce what was left of the original cockpit floor, making up for the material I had removed, and making the repaired floor strong enough to hold up without cracking or being punctured, unlike the original floor.

Using a vacuum bag to try and dry out the core could both dry out the core, and establish if a decent vacuum could be had at all, so Plan E consisted of a vacuum bag on the cockpit floor. Without a wet layup I had no time constraints in fitting the bag. That was just as well, as it took hours to fit a bag to the cockpit floor, find the leaks and get a vacuum. The boat was now inside a large tent that had been erected in John Hauser's backyard. After leaving the bag sucking for several days, I returned to check on the boat and discovered that during a strong rainfall, water had gotten inside the tent and on top of the vacuum bag film. This should not have been a problem -- the bag was sealed to the boat, right -- but the water collected in the transom area -- the boat was bow up -- and happened to collect over a small leak in the bag... and the vacuum sucked the water into part of the bag.
$&@!&#! and more was my immediate reaction. I sponged away the puddle of water over the bag in the stern, found the leak and sealed it, and then left the boat with the vacuum running for several more days, hoping to get some of the water back out. After two or three days the foam at the stern was still appearing moist inside the bag, so I stopped the vacuum, removed the bag, and went back to the heater/fan for a couple of days.

Time for Plan F you think?

I decided that a summer of drying attempts was enough, and the boat was going to weigh whatever it weighed. My experience with the vacuum-to-dry-the-core bag told me that it would take a long time to fit the bag, and that many leaks would be present and would have to be sealed to get a decent vacuum, but that I could get a vacuum and could consider vacuum bagging the cockpit floor in.

Repairing the Cockpit Floor

Despite being advised to use glass cloth, I chose to be fancy and use Kevlar cloth, though with a thin layer of glass cloth on top as a sanding veil. After getting more advice from Larry Tuttle on what total laminate weight I needed for the cockpit floor I chose cloth weights on the assumption that I had removed some but not all of the existing cockpit floor thickness (except where I had ground through to the foam), so that I did not need as much cloth weight as I would if I was laying up a cockpit floor over the core in a new boat. In areas where I had ground all the way through the old cockpit floor (around damaged areas), I intended to put Kevlar patches underneath the main pieces of Kevlar.

I built and slid in a full-width centreboard trunk shim to ensure that the trunk sides stayed parallel and straight while I was laying up the cockpit floor and bonding in the new thwart.

I did quite a bit of pre-layup preparation of the materials and the boat. This included cutting the extra patches of Kevlar for local reinforcements.

With the lengthy time fitting and sealing the earlier vacuum bag had taken fresh in my mind, I bought WEST System 209 Extra Slow Hardener, which gives a much slower cure time than either the normal WEST System 205 Fast or 206 Slow hardeners.

Calling in some favours, I recruited Dustin Romey and Kevin Mehaffey to help with the layup, and on a nice Saturday morning, we started. There was not enough room to do this inside the tent, so the boat was moved outside. We also started quite early in the morning, before the real heat of the day.

The layup took a considerable amount of time. Though the 209 high temperature hardener did slow down the epoxy cure considerably, the boat was partly in the sun and it was getting warm, accelerating the cure.

Once all the Kevlar, glass and peel ply was in, we rolled the boat into the tent to get it out of the sun and slow down the cure, and set about fitting the vacuum bag. This took a long time, as I anticipated. Dustin finally found a small cut in the bag near the transom, and when we taped that up, we had a partial vacuum; enough to hear and find the remaining leaks. After what seemed like hours we were able to get a good vacuum. In areas that had been in shade, the resin was still wet enough to soak into the peel ply, while in some of the areas that had been in the sun, it did not soak into the peel ply. However, I believe the cure had not progressed so far that the vacuum could not consolidate the layup in those areas.

Once I removed the bag and peel ply the resulting floor had a distinct peel ply texture in the areas where resin had soaked into the peel ply and less or no peel ply texture elsewhere.

After some detailing (mostly sanding), it was on to the next step. While drying out the core, I had cut bulkheads to fit for the aft thwart. I used 6mm Okume marine plywood, which I obtained out of the scrap bin at Chesapeake Light Craft in Annapolis. Each face was epoxy coated and sanded. I glassed one face on each with 4 oz. cloth, and decided that glassing was an easier way to get a level epoxy coating on plywood.

New Aft Thwart

Kevlar (and 2 oz. glass) floor
with thwarts being bonded in
Aft part of cockpit floor
Looking at the bailer, just forward
of the thwart.
I left a little of the original thwart
tape in temporarily, to help position
the new thwart. It was quite difficult
to properly sand the bailer areas.
I should have left the bailers out
until after the floor was layed up,
but would then have had more trouble
sealing the bag.
You can see where Kevlar was added for
full coverage at the stern, and also the
patch to reinforce the area where the boom
end hits
The thwarts were bonded in with fillets and 2" glass tape. Masking tape was used to hold them in place until the epoxy cured. I had left part of the original glass tape used to bond in the original aft thwart in place, so I could position the new thwart against it. I left the tape on the forward side where the thwart met the CB trunk. I filleted and taped the new thwart in on the aft side of the thwart-CB trunk join and along the floor, let it cure, then ripped off the remaining original glass tape, sanded, and filleted and glass taped the forward side of the join and the thwart to seat tank join.

The thwart design was an effort to get the cut-away thwart concept that is on 7200, without trying to cold mould two curved thwart tops.

Paint and Nonskid

I decided to use Alwgrip for the cockpit floor as that is what Waterat uses and I believe that Awlgrip, a two-part polyurethane paint, results in the longest-lasting finish. Tom Price had done a great job repainting the cockpit floor on 8351 when he owned it, and in response to my e-mail asking how to do it, told me to mask off areas that should not be painted, then mask around the edges, around the bailers and any other part of the floor I did not want nonskid on, paint the floor, sprinkle nonskid powder on the wet paint, let that dry, vacuum up any loose nonskid powder, then remove the masking tape and paint over everything. I used primer on the CB trunk sides which had been sanded but did not have anything bonded to them as part of the layup, but opted to not prime the floor as I would be putting at least two layers of top coat on.

The first layer of paint and the nonskid powder -- shaken on with a pepper shaker -- went on fine. From past experience I removed the masking tape immediately, and then tried to take a shortcut. I painted part of the exposed-by-removing-the-masking-tape no nonskid area at the same time. The next day, I put a second coat over everything, and discovered that I had a discernible line where I had stopped the paint on the no nonskid area. A third thin coat resolved that problem. I also noticed that when rolling on my second coat over the nonskid powder, the roller had picked up a little bit of the powder that was not quite glued down in the paint (despite my having carefully vacuumed up any powder that was not glued down), and rolled it onto the no nonskid areas. Oh, well... maybe a little nonskid on the side of the CB trunk is OK.

I then sanded the bonded in thwarts a little to prepare for painting (they had already been sanded prior to being bonded in), and put a couple of thin coats of clear Awlgrip on them.

John Hauser and I wet sanded the seat tanks and deck to 600 grit, and I buffed them to get a little shine back. The areas where the old forward thwart had been bonded in required quite a bit of sanding. Though rather far off the shine of a new boat, they do look quite a bit better.

Aft Thwart Top

After painting floor and thwarts.
The thwart tops are epoxied,
but not yet painted with
clear Awlgrip.
Another view
Thwart closeup
The boat is wet from being washed
after tanks were wetsanded and buffed
Looking Aft
The boat is wet from being washed
I had installed the thwarts without the thwart tops, so I could easily glass tape them in without the thwart top getting in the way. I fabricated the thwart tops out of mahogany and cedar found in a scrap bin at Exotic Lumber Inc in Annapolis (what a GREAT lumber store). It took relatively little wood, and the twenty-dollar-and-some-cent charge must have been for the cutting and planing to size, and was still a good deal at that!

I bonded the three-layers -- mahogany, cedar, mahogany -- together, detailed them when the epoxy had cured, and then cut a slot in one face for the thwarts and cut the angles to fit them to the thwarts in the boat. I then put masking tape on the corners of the thwarts in the boat so I would not inadvertently bond the thwart tops to the thwarts early, and bonded the three pieces that made up each thwart top together, while they were sitting on the thwarts. I was able to remove them after curing without too much difficulty. One bond had slipped before the epoxy cured and had to be redone. Once this last bond was cured, I had two fitted thwart tops, but with rectangular cross sections; I wanted nice rounded edges. I bought an inexpensive 3/8" round-off router bit, and was able to round the edges of the thwart tops without too much trouble. However the inexpensive router bit did not have a separate part -- with a bearing -- to run against the side, and I did not get the perfect shape I was hoping for. A little bit of sanding straightened out most of what the router had left; next time buy the better router bit! I epoxy coated, sanded, coated, sanded, coated and sanded the thwart tops. I then sanded the thwarts in the boat where I was bonding to them, masked the thwarts and thwart tops, and bonded the thwart tops in.

Once cured and detailed, I sanded for painting, and went over thwarts and thwart tops with two coats of clear Awlgrip. I intend to put on a third coat when I have a little time.


Ready to race? Port thwart from astern.
That is dust and shavings on the
thwart and floor
Existing jib cleat platforms moved
Shroud tensioning system as on
a current Rondar.
Ram up, ram down, outhaul
and main cunningham are on
CB cap
Existing ram, but with
Waterat-style ram up and
ram down tackle
Wow, a Spiro pole launcher!
Pole launcher cleat on
deck. A pad to raise
the cleat higher was
added after this
picture was taken.
The original jib halyard
system was modified
The jib lead and the spinnaker
lead use the same track.
This allows the spinnaker
to be moved fore-and-aft
so as to ensure that the
spinnaker pole is kept just
off the forestay by the knot
in the sheet, in varying
Vang/kicker is in front of the
thwart, jib halyard (upper) and
shroud (lower) are just behind
the thwart.
On this era of Rondar, the launcher
is centred under the foredeck
rather than angled so as to lead
the spinnaker to port
The tube across the launcher mouth
is stainless steel not aluminium!
It was now late September, and we had a fall regatta at my club coming up in early to mid October. John Hauser suggested that the boat could be ready for that regatta. I towed the boat from his backyard to the club, and using my Waterat and my Rondar as references, started rigging. My goals for rigging remained the same, produce a set of controls that allowed the sailors to easily adust everything that needs to be adjusted to succesfully race the US East Coast North Sails 505 rig, without making the boat any more complicated, or heavy, than it needed to be. In summary, I chose to lead the vang, jib halyard and shrouds to the seat tanks, and led the ram up, ram down, cunningham, and outhaul to the centreboard cap. I left off barber haulers and extensive shockcord takeups. After too many days of rigging, and too much money spent on fittings at APS, 7080 was rigged to the point that it was raceable by the late afternoon of Friday October 11th, the day before the regatta at SSA.

I used the same type of foam non-skid on the rail that Rondar and Pinnell & Bax use. It is thinner and less textured than what Waterat uses, and is not bevelled at the edge, but it comes in a choice of colours :-)

I had my Waterat and my Rondar next to this boat so I could take measurements and figure out a way to do something on this Rondar. For example, the mast ram up and down tackles are as on my Waterat. The jib track position is as per my Rondar (which is a launcher boat like this old Rondar). The jib halyard and shrouds are led to each seat tank along the hull-seat tank join rather than the floor-CB trunk join. This is an idea I believe Witchcraft used on one or more boats they rigged and both Dustin Romey and John Hauser recently rigged their boats this way. It does increase the friction somewhat as the tackle turns at more blocks, but allows one to put the jib halyard and shroud tail cleats anywhere on the seat tanks one wants. I have not noticed any additional friction. I mounted them just aft of the aft thwart, with the vang/kicker just forward of the thwart. Ram down, ram up, outhaul and cunningham are all on the CB cap, in front of the mainsheet swivel jammer. The spinnaker sheets are not led from the rail to the transom, as is normal on 505s. As on 8263 and 7200, they turn at the rail and go forward to the ratchet block. I like how this cleans up the back of the boat. Centreboard up and down are as on my Waterat, but the centreboard down line is led a little further aft so it can be more easily reached when sitting far aft on the rail in big breeze. The centreboard up line is not shockcorded on the Waterat system so you can grab the tail and pull from anywhere.

Cardiac Arrest now has a split tail mainsheet (transom bridle). The jib sheet cleat platforms are in the same location as the forward thwart on my Waterat or my Rondar, so the crew can easily tack facing forward.

Most of the fittings on the boat and nearly all the fasteners are new, either bought at APS or new fittings out of my spares collection. All bolts have lock nuts rather than standard nuts or standard nuts with lock washers. Much of the line is new, too. I was able to reuse some small servo cleats, a small number of blocks, and a few screws. I should have reused more of the original fittings, but having spent so much time -- and money -- on the floor and the thwart, I was reluctant to use less-than-optimum fittings when re-rigging the boat.

The existing mast was modified for the Long Luff Spinnaker by moving the spinnaker halyard very close to the new maximum height. UK-spec masts already have the spinnaker pole topping lift led to just underneath the jib halyard, so I did not have to change the topping lift. I lowered the shroud hounds to the typical US height. I kept the jib halyard system, as I do not believe the stuff luff system is a significant advantage; my new Rondar goes very well with a jib halyard system. Besides, it is easier to rig and de-rig. The boat came with a home-made pole launcher fitting on the mast; I took it off and mounted an old Spiro fitting I had. I had intended to rig the simpler spinnaker pole trolley system, but then decided that since most of the boats 7080 will race against have spinnaker pole launchers, it should as well. I reused the spinnaker pole, and loaned the boat a spare boom I had until I get around to re-rigging the boom that came with 7080. I was able to make an older rudder from my Waterat fit the boat, along with a spare Waterat tiller and a tiller extension. The boat came with a Milanes and White jibing centreboard. Rondar centreboard trunks are narrower than Waterats (which are maximum width). I was able to fit either of the Waterat HA blades that were made to fit my new Rondar.

I sailed the boat on the evening of October 14th. To my delight, most of the rigging worked properly and well. This was verified when John Hauser and I sailed the boat in a little more breeze a few days later. The boat felt good in the water, got up on a plane and was reasonably stiff, and appeared able to carry rig tension.

After the boat had been sailing and racing, I was finally able to weight it. In not-quite-dry condition, without a CB in it, it weighed approximately 298 pounds.

Racing 7080

On November 9-10 I raced Cardiac Arrest for the first time, with Sol Marini crewing. The event was the Mid Atlantic Championship at WRSC. Against a fleet of Lindays, Waterats, one penultimate model epoxy Rondar and a Parker-hulled Lindsay, we somehow managed to win the regatta in 7080. I was very impressed that the boat was able to do this.

Specific Control Systems

Top of vang/kicker.
Old Schaffer block with becket
added as Waterat used to do,
with a Ronstan Series 20 triple.
A bullet-sized triple would have
less friction, but would be heavier
and cost more.
Bottom of vang/kicker.
A Harken bullet double and two
smaller single swivels. I used
Ronstan Series 20 swivels, but
Harken Micro swivels works very
well too.
Another view of vang/kicker
bottom. The swivels need to be
close enough to the mast, that the
vang/kicker line does not rub on
the edge of the bulkhead opening
(or at least does not rub much).
You can see the vang/kicker
bottom. Note the Harken wire
block attached to a high load
vang/kicker fitting at the base
of the mast. I used a Harken 300,
a Schaffer matching the upper
block or a Harken 304 would be
better, but the 300 is lighter
and cheaper.
Vang/kicker bottom Vang/kicker control line (yellow)
emerges (starboard side) from diagonal
bulkhead above the jib halyard and
the shroud.
This Rondar had tank drain bungs
in the FRONT of the tank. You can
see the drain bung behind the control
Vang/kicker control line (yellow)
emerges (port side) from diagonal
bulkhead above the jib halyard
and the shroud tails.
The tank drain plugs are at the
front of the tank. That is the
drain plug behind the control
(starboard) The vang/kicker line
goes aft to a Ronstan Series 20
cheek block, which turns it up to
a Servo cleat
The vang/kicker is based on the standard Waterat system, having the same mechanical advantage, but using slightly different blocks. I used a spare Schaffer wire block with a becket made from a shackle (Waterat did it this way on 8263), shackled to the boom. A Harken 313 Single wire block with becket would also work, though it may be slightly heavier than the Schaffer. By the way, Schaffer changed this block and it now has stainless steel cheeks rather than aluminium, so is similar to the Harken. 1/8" vectran is spliced to the becket and runs down to a Harken 300 or 304 Single wire block (Waterat used another Schaffer on 8263) shackled to a high load vang/kicker fitting at the base of the mast. By the way, if you have not figured this out, 1/8" vectran can replace nearly all the flexible wire you ever had on your 505. It is cheaper than wire, and incredibly easy to make loops in by "splicing" actually tucking the line through itself about three times and then burying the end inside the line. The vectran then leads back up to the Harken 313 or whatever you used on the boom, coming out the top, and ending at a triple block. I used a Ronstan Series 20 triple, a Harken triple bullet block or triple 29mm Carbo block would work very well too. Larger sheaves introduce less friction. Waterat used a Harken triple bullet on 8263. A double block is shackled to an eye strap on the mast about seven inches above the high load vang/kicker fitting. I happened to have a spare Harken double wire bullet, but the Ronstan Series 20, Harken carbo double, or Harken bullet double would work well here too, and would be lighter than the Harken double wire bullet block I used. You do not need a wire block here. Waterat used a Harken double bullet on 8263. Two single swivels are also shackled to this same eyestrap, actually to the shackle used to attach the double to the eyestrap. Waterat used Harken micro single swivels on 8263. Since these do not turn a line with as much wrap as the triple and the double, you can get away with lighter and smaller blocks here. I used Ronstan Series 20 swivels. Two Harken 096 upright blocks were bolted to the forward side of the diagonal bulkheads and a hole drilled through the bulkhead for the vang/kicker line to lead through the bulkhead around the 096, diagonally up to the swivel on the eye strap on the mast, back and forth between the triple and the double, through the other swivel and so on. The 096s are located such that the line leading aft through the bulkhead from the 096 is led just along the seat tank to floor join. These lines are turned up the side of the seat tank by Ronstan Series 20 cheek blocks, Harken bullet cheek blocks, or similar. Waterat used Harken bullet cheek blocks on 8263. I used the smaller-sized Servo cleat with the little bent wire fairlead, mounted on the side of the tank, above the cheek blocks, to cleat the vang/kicker control line. You could use the smaller Harkens or smaller Ronstans here. The Servo sticks up slightly less than the Ronstan or Harken, which is nice on the back of the skipper's thighs and legs. Waterat used servo cleats on 8263.
Jib Halyard
The jib halyard emerges from the
mast just below the gooseneck.
A hook with a block on it, is
hooked to the halyard. This
hook is on a cascade system
that results in a 4:1 mechanical
advantage line being lead aft
along the CB trunk bottom
Detail showing how the blue
vectran lines on the cascade
are attached to the mast step
The blue vectran 4:1 line runs aft
along the CB trunk side. It is the
blue vectran line WITHOUT the
floating Ronstan block with the
red control line
The 4:1 line is turned forward
by a cheek block mounted on a
block just behind the back of
the centreboard trunk. It runs
back forward to a floating
Ronstan Series 20 block, which
has the 8:1 tail(red) running
forward from it.
When this picture was taken
the block had not yet been
painted to match the rest of
the cockpit
The red tails goes forward and
through the diagonal bulkheads
on the starboard side.
The red tails are turned by Harken
092 standup blocks which lead one
tail down to a double standup block
which turns it aft, and leads the
other through the mast step to a
Micro cheek which turns it down to
the double standup block.
The block of wood and cleat wedge
are temporary spacers to align the
Harken micro cheek block.
The red tail emerges from the
diagonal bulkhead on the
starboard side, turned aft by
the double standup block. It
is led aft.
The red tail emerges from the
diagonal bulkhead on the
port side, turned aft by
the double standup block. It
is led aft.
Red jib halyard tail is turned
up by a cheek block just aft of
the thwart (line runs through
limber hole) up to a Servo cleat
The mast that came with 7080 was rigged with a jib halyard. The halyard tail exits from the aft side of the mast, just below the gooseneck. Once the jib is raised with the halyard, a wire loop in the halyard exits the mast, and a hook on an cascading 8:1 tackle is hooked to the wire loop. The first two lines (vectran) in the tackle are deadended on the mast step, just aft and to starboard of the mast. A block -- block and hook were reused from the original vang -- hangs on the hook. The first line starts aft/starboard of the mast, goes up through the block on the hook, and is deadended on a single Harken bullet block. A smaller block would probably work OK here, but this block is still taking half the load of the jib halyard. The second line starts at the same dead-end point as the first, is led through this second block, down to a cheek block underneath the mast step on the starboard side, and aft along the CB trunk bottom to a cheek block on a block of wood, at the aft end of the centreboard trunk. The line wraps around the sheave on the cheek block and is deadended on a Ronstan Series 20 floating block. The final tail on the jib halyard starts at a cleat on the seat tank, just aft of the aft thwart, down to a Ronstan Series 20 on the side of the tank near the floor which turns it forward, through the thwart limber hole, to the upper sheave on a Harken 220 double standup block, which turns it diagonally up to a Harken 096 mounted on the forward side of the diagonal bulkhead just to starboard of where the diagonal bulkhead meets the centreboard case, aft through the inner limber hole of the aft thwart to the floating Ronstan Series 20, back forward through the limber hole to another Harken 096, which turns it sideways, through a hole in the mast step to a Harken micro cheek 233 block which lines it up to go into the upper sheave on a Harken 220 double (corresponding to the first Harken 220 double) forward of the diagonal bulkhead. The line is turned aft through the diagonal bulkhead, along the tank hull join through the limber hole in the aft thwart to a cheek block which turns it up to a Servo cleat on the tank.
The shroud ends in a Harken wire
block. A shroud tail starts
at the chainplate, runs up to
this Harken block, down to a
second Harken block on a shackle
and diagonally forward along the
diagonal bulkhead.
The shroud tail is turned down
and aft by a Harken wire bullet
on an eye strap bolted to the
diagonal bulkhead.
It ends at a Ronstan Series 20
triple block with becket.
Line is reeved from the triple,
to a double fastened to the front
of the centreboard trunk.
A floating Ronstan Series 20 turns
the line aft.
The line from the other side crosses
through centreline -- an angled hole
was drilled through the structure
forward of the centreboard trunk --
and is turned aft by another floating
Ronstan Series 20

The shroud attachment on the CB case
was moved forward and reinforced
after this picture was taken. The
structure has a thin plywood web
with approximately one inch of air
on either side, and then the grey
gelcoated fiberflass sides. I cut
through the fiberglass
with a jig saw, filled the space
between the web and each side's glass
with wood, and epoxied the pieces I had
cut out, back in.

Another view of the shrould tackle
port side.
The two lines are joined into one,
and led aft and turned around a cheek
block opposite the cheek block for the
jib halyard tackle.
As with the jib halyard, the line ends
at a floating Ronstan Series 20 block.
Black (or maybe it is dark blue) control
lines run forward from the floating
Series 20 block, through the diagonal
bulkhead, just to port of centreline.
As with the jib halyard, they are turned
down to the double stand up on the port
side, and through the mast step, around
the Micro cheek block, and down to the
double standup on the starboard side.
The jib halyard tail uses the upper
sheave on each double standup, while
the shroud tail uses the lower sheave.
The shroud tail is led aft along
the tank-hull join, through the
limber hole in the aft thwart
to a Ronstan Series 20 cheek
block, which turns it up to a
Holt-Allen cleat on the
I did not want to go to the trouble if installing tubes in the seat tanks to lead the shroud extensions through. I also did not particularly like stacking triples between the rail and the bottom of the shroud. I hung Harken 300 Wire Blocks on the bottom of the shrouds, and shackled Harken 300 Wire Blocks to the chain plate. 1/8" flexible wire is nicopressed to the chainplate, goes up through the 300 blocks, down to the 300 blocks and is lead diagonally forward along the diagonal bulkhead to a Harken wire bullet 098 hanging on an eye strap bolted through the diagonal bulkhead. An alternative would be using a Harken 312 Wire Block with becket on the chainplate and deadending the shroud extension on the becket rather than the chainplate. This turns the wire down towards the floor and front of the centreboard case. The wire ends in a nicopressed loop. A triple block with becket is shackled to the nicopressed loop, and mated with a triple hanging on a bracket on the front of the centreboard case, slightly above the floor.

This bracket was moved forward after the pictures were taken. There is empty space inboard of the grey-gelcoated fiberglass sides of the CB trunk going forward to the diagonal bulkheads and mast step. I cut away a piece on each side and filled the empty space with epoxy coated wood. The brackets are bolted to each other through this wood.

A line is reeved between the triple with becket and the triple and is turned aft by a floating Ronstan Series 20 single. This line is joined to the line that is led from the other side, through a hole in the front of the CB trunk (forward of the centreboard well itself), turned aft by another floating Ronstan Series 20. The two lines are joined and tensioned together. The single line is lead aft along the centreboard trunk and floor join on the port side, through the limber hole in the aft thwart, to a cheek block on a block of wood at the back of the CB trunk. It wraps around the sheave and ends on a floating Ronstan Series 20. Two lines are led forward from this floating block in a manner that mirrors that used for the jib halyard. The shroud control lines are reeved through the lower sheave in the Harken 220 standup doubles and led to cheek blocks and cleats just aft of the corresponding jib halyard cheek blocks and cleats. The shroud tail is led along the hull tank join, below the jib halyard tail, which is below the vang/kicker. I used Ronstan Series 20 cheek blocks as for the jib halyard tail, but used a spare set of Holt-Allen cleats. The shroud cleats are low enough on the tank I felt cleat height was no longer an issue, and I did not need to buy the lower profile Servo cleats for the shrouds.

Ram Down
Ram down starts with a Harken
wire block with becket, hanging
on a vectran line from the car.
You can see the Harken wire block
used for the ram down control
attached to the mast step. The
blue line with the pink fleck
is the ram down control line.
It is deadended on the mast step.
The blue line with pink fleck is
reeved between the floating double
and the single on the mast step
and is then led to a cheek block
on the starboard side of the mast
step that turns it aft, through
the slot in the bulkhead
Ram down tail is cleated on the
port side in the cleat further
Another view
I built a Waterat-style ram down system, which is a 3:1 primary and a 4:1 secondary for 12:1, except I led a single end to the centreboard cap, rather than running an end to each seat tank as Waterat 8263 has. A Harken 312 hangs by a short vectran line from the bottom of the ram car on the ram track on the mast. Vectran is spliced to the becket, led down to a Harken 300 on the mast step, back up through the sheave on the Harken 312, and is deadended on a double block. Waterat used a Harken bullet double on 8263, I used a no-name brand double recycled from the pile I took off 7080. The double block is matched with a single on the mast step. The ram tail starts at the mast step, up through the double, down through the sheave on the single with becket, up to the second sheave on the double, down to a cheek block on the port side underneath the mast step, aft through a slot in the diagonal bulkhead to a small Ronstan cleat and Harken fairlead sitting on a Holt Allen cleat base with built-in fairlead tube. The fairlead tube is what leads the tail from underneath the centreboard cap to the cleat. The line runs from the cleat to a Ronstan Series 20 single hanging on a rope eye strap a hand's width aft of the cleat.

The reason the line starts at the mast step, rather than on a becket on the lower single, is that the becket would reduce the travel in the system, and there is already not much travel between the deck and the mast step.

Ram Up
Ram up starts with a Harken air
double block shackled to the ram
up wire emerging from the bottom
of the ram track.
Ram up is cleated on the port
side of the cap, opposite the
ram down, and in front of
cunninhgam and outhaul
Another view
The mast on 7080 came with a Z-spar mast ram. This mast ram setup has a wire nicopressed to the top of the mast ram car, run up to a sheave built into the top of the mast ram track, down inside the mast ram track and emerging at a nicopressed loop just below the bottom of the mast ram track. I shackled a Harken Air double here. Waterat used a Harken micro double on 8263, a Ronstan Series 20 or even a bullet double or Carbo double could work well there too, though clearance between ram up and ram down tackles can be a problem if larger blocks are used on both. This double is matched with a Ronstan Series 20 single with becket on the mast step. The ram up tail starts at the becket, is led up through the double, down through the single, back up to the double, down to a cheek block on the starboard side of the mast step, aft through a slot in the diagonal bulkhead and to a Ronstan cleat, Harken fairlead and Holt-Allen cleat base on the starboard side of the centreboard cap which mirrors that of the ram down, which is on the port side.
Cunningham is on the starboard
side of the centreboard cap, aft
of the ram up, and in front of
the mainsheet swivel jammer
Another view
The cunningham system was influenced both by my new Rondar and by my Waterat. I sawed up a shackle to make a hook, filed the hole smooth and spliced vectran to the shackle, as Waterat does. The hook is hooked into the cunningham eye on the mainsail. The vectran runs down through the mast gate to starboard and aft of the mast, to a cheek block underneath the mast step on the starboard side. It turns aft and is deadended on a small block. The cunningham tail is deadended on an eyestrap fastened to the underside of the centreboard cap (on one of the cunningham cleat mounting bolts). The tail runs forward, through the small block, and aft to a Ronstan cleat with Harken fairlead on a Holt-Allen cleat base, on the starboard side of the centreboard cap, aft of the ram up cleat and its associated Ronstan Series 20, and just in front of the mainsheet swivel jammer. As with the ram up and down controls the tail is lead aft of the cleat through a Ronstan Series 20 on a rope eye strap. The tackle is as on my new Rondar. I think Waterat uses a 3:1 on the cunningham, by making the floating block a single with becket rather than a single. The Waterat cunningham tail would start on the becket, be led aft to a single block under the cap, forward to the floating block with becket then aft to the cleat.
Outhaul is on the port
side of the centreboard cap, aft
of the ram down, and in front of
the mainsheet swivel jammer
Another view
The boom I am currently using for the boat, a Superspar, is a boom I rigged myself as a spare on 8263. It has a 4:1 outhaul tackle, with the outhaul line normally deadended on the boom end plastic fitting (it can be unhooked to ease getting the mainsail off the boom), forward to a Harken air single shackled to the outhaul eye in the main, aft around a sheave in the boom end plastic fitting, forward through the boom, round a sheave in the forward boom end fitting, and down. This line is tied to a second line which continues down through the mast gate aft of the mast, to a cheek block on the port side of the mast step, underneath the mast. The line is turned aft, through the slot in the diagonal bulkhead, to a Ronstan cleat and Harken fairlead on a Holt Allen cleat base. This cleat base mirrors that of the Cunningham, and is on the port side of the centreboard cap, just in front of the mainsheet swivel and aft of the ram down cleat base and Ronstan Series 20. Having outhaul and cunningham close together, on either side of the CB cap, makes it easy for me to ease both with one motion, as I am bearing off around the weather mark and hoisting the spinnaker.
Pole Uphaul
The pole uphaul exits the mast through a short slot on the port side of the mast, near the heel. The uphaul line is lead through a cheek block on the port side of the mast step, which turns it aft through the slot in the diagonal bulkhead to a Clam Cleat mounted on the centreboard cap a short distance behind the mast step. I will add a pole downhaul adjustment at some point, as I believe that with the long luff spinnaker the ability to adjust the downhaul stop is necessary, so that the pole will not lift regardless of how high it is being carried.
Pole Launcher
Spiro fitting on mast The pole launcher line comes down
from the Spiro, to a bullet block
on the deck just to starboard of
the mast gate, and then to a Ronstan
cleat on a Harken raised angled pad.
The grapevine says that Marlow Excel
Racing (polyester/polyester) is the
best line for this application. Use
the 5mm size I think.
I mounted a spare Spiro fitting on the mast, slightly below of my preferred location, so as to be further away from several other holes in the mast. The launcher line is led down from the fitting to a bullet block on an eystrap, just to starboard of the mast gate. This block turns the line aft to a large Ronstan cleat and Ronstan fairlead just forward of the aft edge of the foredeck, also just to starboard of the mast gate.

There are two separate shockcord retracts in the boom. The primary shockcord is the one that has one end attached to the spinnaker pole end fitting. The shockcord runs aft to a through-deck block in the boom, forward to a Harken micro double with becket, aft to a Harken micro double, back forward to the micro double with becket, aft to the double, forward to the becket on the double. I attach the double blocks to each end of the boom either by bolting eyestraps to the inside of the boom, or tying the blocks to the end fittings with long-lasting Marlow prestretch line. Building this system can be fun. I buy a little more shockcord than I will ultimately need, so I can pull the blocks apart to the correct distance without straining against the shockcord. I reeve the shockcord through the blocks (except for the through-deck block in the boom) outside the boom. I use a stiff wire to lead a line through the boom, and pull the forward block through the boom to the front and fasten it there. I then tie the aft block to the aft end of the boom, and run a feeder line from the through-deck block to the back of the boom, tie on the end of the shockcord and pull it out of the boom through the through deck block. I then slip that through the pole end fitting and tie a stopper knot. The shockcord typically needs to be shortened at this point, in order to have enough force pulling the pole aft.

The second shockcord is the one that has a loop sliding on the pole. The purpose of this shockcord is two-fole. The first reason is to keep the forward end of the pole in against the boom when the pole is stowed. This helps keep the pole aligned with the boom when the launch sequence is started. The second reason is that this shockcord helps pull the inboard end of the pole off the Spiro/Proctor fitting on the mast. This shockcord starts with a loop large enough to slide on the pole. I McLube pole and shockcord from time to time. It is led through a small block close to the front of the boom, either a single on an eyestrap or a cheek block, which turns the shockcord aft. It runs into the boom through a slot, and goes the length of the boom to the back, where it is deadended.

Main Halyard
A variation of the Rondar system. The mast was rigged with the main halyard exiting the mast on the starboard side, above deck level. This appears to be typical for UK-rigged masts, and works well on my new Rondar. I simply replaced the halyard clam cleat with a new one, mounting it with two bolts tapped into the mast wall. The original halyard slipped through this new cleat and was quite stretchy, so I replaced it with a 1/8" vectran line that is halyard and tail. This vectran has a short jacket added where it cleats. The jacket has both ends buried back into the vectran, so it cannot slip. Thanks to Chris at APS for showing me how to do this. So far it works so well, I may have to make up another similar halyard for 8776.
Centreboard Up
Two bullet blocks are hung on
short loops behind the mast step
Ronstan bullet on medium length
blue loop is the centreboard up
lead block
The longer loop allows the line to
lift away from the centreboard cap
controls when it is pulled
A variation of the Waterat system. I hung a Harken or Ronstan bullet block on a medium-length rope loop, just forward of the mainsheet swivel jammer, on the starboard side. The centreboard pennant is tied onto a cheek block mounted on the port side of the CB head, it runs forward to the first of two bullet blocks hanging on rope loops, just behind the mast step, it then runs through a cheek block on the starboard side of the CB head, back through the second of the two bullet blocks and then aft along the top of the centreboard cap to the block on the medium-length rope loop. The medium length rope loops causes the CB pennant to be clear of the two control mounted forward of it on the starboard side of the CB cap, when the line is pulled.
Centreboard Down
The CB down line starts at the
block on loop on the port cap
(right side of photo near top)
It runs through the cheek block
on the port side of the CB head
Through the block on the loop and
aft to a cheek block near the back
of the CB cap. Then down to a cheek
block on the side of the CB trunk,
at the floor. The line is tied to
a shockcord which is led to a block
on the transom and then forward.
The black CB down shockcord runs
forward along the starboard side
of the CB trunk, and deadends at
the diagonal bulkhead.
Based on the Waterat system. A block on a short rope loop is attached to the centreboard cap just aft of the aft most point the centreboard head can reach. A line is tied to the short rope loop, led forward to the cheek block on the port side of the centreboard head, back aft to the block on the short rope loop, and from there aft along the top of the centreboard cap to a cheek block mounted on the port side of the centreboard cap, aft of the mainsheet swivel jammer. The short rope loop is mounted on the outer edge of the cap, such that the centreboard down line leads outboard of the controls on top of the centreboard cap. From the cheek block the line leads down and slightly forward to a cheek block mounted on the side of the CB trunk, at the bottom of the boat. Once through this block the line is tied to shockcord which is led aft to a block shackled to the inside of the transom and then forward along the floor on the starboard side of the boat. It is deadended on the diagonal bulkhead.
Jib Cunningham
The jib cunnigham cleat is just
to port of the mast gate
The jib cunningham system is as on my new Rondar. A Harken air block hangs on loops of light line wrapped three times around the athwartship tube in the launcher opening, and tied together. The block is on the port side of the tack fitting. The jib cunningham line leads forward from the cleat, through an angled hole in the foredeck to get below the deck, then through the launcher tube. It is turned up to the jib by the block tied to the tube. Once the jib is up the line is run through the eye in the jib and is tied back on the tube, on the starboard side of the tack fitting. This gives a 2:1 (with some friction) system for the jib cunningham, which is plenty.
Trapeze System
The trapeze shockcord
runs forward through
the diagonal bulkhead
Some trapeze shockcords are run diagonally - heading for centerline at the watertight bulkhead -- into the diagonal bulkheads and turned at a block or a bullseye under the foredeck, on centreline. I believe this results in a shockcord that is too short. Waterat's trapeze shockcord goes almost straight forward through the diagonal bulkhead to a Harken micro block on an eyestrap, mounted on the watertight bulkhead, just inboard of the rail, it then runs to the corresponding block on the other side, back to the first block, to the second block and then aft through the bulkhead to the bullseye and up to the ring. The shockcord is considerably longer. I liked the way Carl Buchan had run the shockcord on his new Rondar, keeping it below the launcher tube opening on the bulkhead. My old Rondar is different and I could not run the shockcord as low in the centre, but it runs forward as on a Waterat to the block on the watertight bulkhead near the rail, then along the bulkhead down to a cheek block, up to the block on the other side and aft through the diagonal bulkhead to the bullseye. So my shockcord run is not as long as the Waterat's, but longer than that typical on other 505s. Running the shockcord almost straight forward rather than angling it towards the centerline under the foredeck probably helps to keep it further away from the twing handle, making it easier to grab the twing handle.
Martin Twings
The twing cleat and twing handle
on the port side
The twing line continues inboard
from the handle through a bullseye,
across the boat to a second bullseye,
through the second handle, etc.
I installed a variation of the Mike Martin double handled twing system. You can do twings with rings rather than blocks on the handles, or the blocks can be smaller, but I had Harken bullets in my spare parts collection, so used those. A few years ago I tested a Ronstan cleat on one side and a Servo on the other, for the twings. After a year of using both, we decided we liked the Servo slightly better than the Ronstan for this application. However, the Servo needs the extra-cost fairlead, not the one that comes with the cleat. This is a bit of a pain to install. Using the Ronstans with their plastic fairlead was quicker and easier.

The fairleads just outboard of the cleats is something Rondar installed on my new Rondar. It ensures the twing line cleats properly, even if the line is not led straight out of the cleat. This allows some flexibility in where the bullseye on the rail goes.


This era Rondar has a less than full-width centreboard trunk. Rather than the 35mm (maximum width under class rules) centreboard trunks on Waterats, Lindsays and Parkers, this Rondar's centreboard trunk is about 32mm wide, very close to the width of my new Rondar 8776's. The CB trunk seems slightly longer on the forward end than my new Rondar's. A Waterat High Aspect ratio CB which fits in my new Rondar, fit in this boat with a little room to spare. I filled in the old CB pin hole with epoxy-and-filler, and drilled a new CB bolt hole at the same position that it would be in a Waterat. This is slightly forward of where I have to put it in the new Rondar. I plan to put whichever of my HA3-540 or my HA3-480 is not in 8776, in 7080.

More to Do

There is a little more to do. I need to touch up the desert sand Awlgrip paint in a few areas, particularly where the thwart was sanded so the thwart top would bond to it. I need to sand and clear Awlgrip the thwarts and thwart tops with a couple more coats. Some of the holes through which lines are led need to be slightly enlarged and epoxy sealed. So far I know some of the control lines need to be trimmed.

The spinnaker halyard cleat was a quick accommodation and is not ideal. I need to build a bracket to support the cleat in the more normal horizontal orientation, rather than on the side of the CB cap. The shroud tackles should be vectran. I need to scrape and sand the paint off the floor forward of the diagonal bulkheads and see what state the floor is in. I found and fixed most of the small leaks in the side tanks, but have a couple more small repairs to complete. The mast gate was repaired at some point and is no longer on centreline, or parallel to it, so that needs to be fixed. It may be necessary to extend the mast gate opening further aft so the mast can be rammed straight when stepped at 10' 0" from the transom (or sailed with little bend when raked). A short term accomodation will be to step the mast slightly further forward. I need to weigh the boat dry (it weighed 298 without a CB and not quite dry).


This project could not have been completed without assistance from a number of people including (but not limited to):

Paul Young finding, acquiring and shipping the boat
Allan FreedmanInitial trial sail, making sure I enjoyed sailing 7080
John Hauser paint removing, counseling, suggestions
Larry Tuttle/Waterat Sailing Equipment LOTS of great advice, and several weeks of great learning while working there earlier in the year
Peter Alarie advice
Hauser's boat yard a great FREE Annapolis do-it-yourself boat yard, conveniently located in John Hauser's back yard
Mike Goldstein and Jen Shwade loan of a dehumidifier
David StetsonLayup table suggestions
Dustin Romey and Kevin Mehaffey cockpit floor layup
Tom Price advice on how to do nonskid floors
The US Navy loan of a vacuum pump


You REALLY have to be crazy to put this kind of effort into old clunker 505s, and extensive boat projects -- if they should be done at all -- are better done by boatbuilders with a shop and tools, while you take on a second job flipping hamburgers or something, to pay the boatbuilder.


The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction (I read this book many years ago, and hope I still remember some of what they wrote)

The following are a few of the many web sites I reviewed (I forgot to bookmark many that I checked):
Composite Fabricators Association Glossary -- http://www.cfa-hq.org/glossary.htm
eComposites: Vacuum Bagging Basics -- http://www.ecomposites.net/html/how_to_vacuum.htm
Make Your Own Vacuum Bagging Equipment -- http://members.ozemail.com.au/~flyingwing/vacbag/
Marine Composites -- http://marinecomposites.com/
Surf Board Lamination -- http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~decay/number1/lamination.htm
Turner Racing Shells -- http://www.turnershells.com/
An Inexpensive Vacuum System Setup -- http://www.scrollsander.com/Soaring-Vac.htm
AM&D Basic Vacuum Bagging Kit -- http://www.vacuumbagging.com/page9.html
How to Construct a Fiberglass Panel -- http://www.sungroper.asn.au/project/fibreglasspanels.html
DLG Wing Repair Using a Local Vacuum Bag -- http://www.monkeytumble.com/hlg/wing_repair.htm
Vacuum Bagging (Model Rocket Parts) -- http://www.info-central.org/construction_vacuumbagging.shtml

Try a Google or AltaVista search on keywords like "vacuum bag" and "glass", "cloth", "resin" or similar and see what you find.