Basic Rigging Measurements

• Spinnaker sheet block on rail - 35.5" from the outside of the transom. If you shackle it to an eye strap, it has to go either in front of where the tiller crosses the rail, or behind the tiller on the rail when the tiller is pushed all the way to one side. If you hang the block on a short piece of line off the side of the rail, this may not be a concern.
• Mainsheet jammer - is centered 5' 2" from the outside of the transom. This is further forward than on some older boats, and helps you sit far enough forward and gives you enough room to tack the tiller and extension if you use a transom bridle.
• Vang cleat on tank - is 5' 5.25" from the outside of the transom. This keeps you far enough forward. In very light air it will be behind you.
• Trapeze shockcord bullseye - is centered 6" inboard and 2" back of the shroud chainplate center. This is far enough away from the shroud that it should not wrap around the shroud too easily.
• Vang attachment on boom - is 27" aft of the front end of the boom.
• The mainsheet bridle tails join - 36" above the bottom of the boat on centerline. This should be a little higher, about two more inches, if you use the new model North main with the shorter leech.
• Spinnaker sheet ratchet blocks on the seat tanks - are 6' 5.25" forward of the outside of the transom. This is far enough forward that you do not get the sheet in the way of the mainsheet when the crew moves aft on a blast reach.
• The spinnaker pole trolley shockcord dead ends on the boom - 15.75" from the inner edge of the boom band. This is far enough forward to push the pole against whatever retaining system you have for the front end of the pole. On one side the shockcord is deadended by putting it through a hole drilled in the top of the boom, and tying a knot. The other side has an eye strap that the loop in the end of the shockcord is shackled to. This makes it easy to disconnect for de-rigging.
• The mainsheet ratchet block hangs 4' 9" forward of the inside edge of the boom end band. This should be roughly above the mainsheet swivel jammer, and gives you enough room to get the tiller extension through when you tack.
• Tiller extension universal joint - is 3' 9 3/8" from the axis of the pintles and gudgeons. That means your tiller is longer by whatever amount is foward of the universal, and whatever amount goes aft of the axis into the rudder head. This gives you a long enough tiller to sit far enough forward, and still have leverage on the tiller. If you go with too long a tiller, you will have trouble getting the tiller extension across the boat when you tack.
• A fixed length tiller extension should be about 3'' 4" long,measured from the center of the universal joint mounting on the tiller along the tiller extension while it is parallel with the tiller. A longer tiller extension will be difficult to tack with a transom bridle. A shorter one will not let you get far enough forward.
• A telescoping tiller extension should go from 3' 2" to 5' 9" or thereabouts. If it cannot go shorter you will have trouble tacking. You want the length so the crew can steer from the trapeze. As above, these measurements are from the center of the universal joint mount on the tiller, along the tiller extension while it is parallel to the tiller.
• Barber hauler lead for a forward tack boat - I either lead to a wire attached to the chain plate, which gives me 2" inboard of the shroud and 1" forward, or I go to an eye strap centered 3" forward of the shroud and 3 inches inboard. You have to be further back by some amount - unknown to me - for a launcher boat with the jib tacked further aft.